3/4/2023 0 Comments Pinball arcade cabinet supportI placed some hot glue on the soldered parts to strengthen them. Test the controller again in TPA to make sure everything works as it should. Now either using solder or crimp connectors, attach the other end of the wires to the microswitches that came with the arcade buttons. Carefully scrape some of the black substance off the A button terminal to reveal metal and solder wires to these. Using the picture above as refernce, solder the wires to the LB/RB buttons. At this point you can shorten the lead, just to save space in the cabinet. You can remove the rumble mechanisms and tops of the analogue sticks, you should be left with the circuit board and a long lead. When you have set up the controller and saved the profile you can begin dismantling it. ![]() The flipper buttons are easiest to map to LB/RB, and the launch ball button to A, setting up this way will also match Zen's native controls. Once you have downloaded the program, using the OTG Cable, set up the contoller to emulate screen touches for flippers and the launch button (Unfortunaly I didn't emulate the plunger, maybe in another build). Zen Pinball does support controllers, so you can use a stock Nexus. I use USB/BT Joycenter, but there are others. These programs require root access, so obvioulsy you need a rooted tablet. At time of writing The Pinball Arcade doesn't natively support controllers, so you need to use a program that changes button presses to screen touches. But this will all depend on what speakers you are using. I took the casing off the speakers to make access easier, and hot glued the battery pack to the back of the main box. ![]() You will need to hot glue the speakers to the sides over the holes you drilled earlier. Likewise the launch button should be confortable, I placed mine so I didn't have to take my finger off the flipper button to reach. Don't forget to take into consideration the lift from the feet. For the flipper buttons I put them in a place where I could rest my hands on a table with my thumbs on the lockdown bar. At this stage it's also easier to drill holes for sound, buttons, hinges and for ventilation. I've included my measurements on the image, but after painting is a tiny bit tight, so you may want to increase the width by a couple of mm. Once you've got it all looking good, measure out and cut all the pieces using the MDF. I never made technical drawings, it was just hit and miss until I was happy with it. It's important to have a cardboard mockup when working out the hinge. ![]() The first one I made looked weird and was to large for the Nexus, so I made a second smaller one which looked and fit better. This will give you an idea of the final cabinet and saves wasting MDF if it doesn't quite come out right. Fixed an issue where nudging the table by simultaneously pressing multiple nudge keys on the keyboard resulted in unfairly powerful nudges.Firstly, start out by making a cardboard mockup. In fullscreen mode if unsupported resolution is supplied, the default resolution is used instead.) “-resolution=x” - Start the game in the given resolution. “-window” or “-windowed” - Start the game in windowed mode. “-borderless” - Start the game in borderless windowed mode. “-fullscreen” - Start the game in fullscreen mode. ![]() Accessible in-game in the graphics settings menu, or with the following command line parameters : In order to access the cabinet features, new users are now required to register for a Personal Activation Code for FREE. External dot-matrix display & backglass window support. The screen orientation setting has been relocated to the cabinet panel in the Settings screen. For today's update we have added cabinet support (new ‘cabinet’ icon on the bottom menu bar)
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